New England Road Trip, Part 3: Minute Man National Historical Park

From my travels, August 6, 2021.

For our last full day in the Boston area, we decided to have a special breakfast in a town that has some special significance for the boys’ family. We drove into Waltham, and had a lovely breakfast at Wilson’s Diner.

It was a real treat to eat at the wonderfully old-fashioned Wilson's Diner. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
It was a real treat to eat at the wonderfully old-fashioned Wilson’s Diner. – Photo by the author

As we walked back to the car, we passed by several historical markers in the town square – none of which had yet been added to the HMDB. I took a ton of photos so that I could add them later. It’s always a nice feeling to be able to contribute in that way unexpectedly.

One of the monuments that I was able to add to the HMDB in Waltham. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
One of the monuments that I was able to add to the HMDB in Waltham. – Photo by the author

Waltham is where “Nene’s” father grew up. Her grandfather, Arthur A. Hansen, was a decorated WWI hero, and later Mayor of Waltham. “Nene” took us around town to the site of various houses that she knew had been in the family at one point or another. Eventually, we made our way to Mount Feake Cemetery where Mayor Hansen is buried. We visited his gravesite and enjoyed the view of the Charles River and the old watch factory on the far side.

The boys pose with their "Nene" by the grave of their 2x Great Grandfather. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
The boys pose with their “Nene” by the grave of their 2x Great Grandfather. – Photo by the author

It was soon time for more Revolutionary War history, and we drove over to Lexington where we visited the small museum and the famous green itself where the Battles of Lexington and Concord began. This was another event that the boys had learned about in school, so it was nice to make it more “real” for them.

Posing with their flags at one of the monuments on Lexington Green. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
Posing with their flags at one of the monuments on Lexington Green. – Photo by the author

For the Concord portion of the fighting, we made our way over to Minute Man National Historical Park. We were able to see their museum, and pick up Junior Ranger books at a table out front. One of the volunteers there was nice enough to give me the badges and “deputize” me to award them once the books were complete so we wouldn’t have to double-back. That was a very nice thing.

We drove the tour route, stopping at the Hartwell Tavern so the boys could do the activites there and see some of what the Battle Road was like. Two of the rangers there were very nice and engaged with the boys. Eventually, we made it all the way to Concord, and the boys and I strolled down the trail to the Old North Bridge, admiring the monuments and hearing stories from one of the volunteers who was stationed there.

The boys with the Minute Man monument at the Old North Bridge in Concord. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
The boys with the Minute Man monument at the Old North Bridge in Concord. – Photo by the author

That evening, the boys finished their Junior Ranger activities back at the hotel before we drove a short distance to New Hampshire – passing through the town of Chelmsford where “Nene” had grown up – to have dinner with her brother Artie and several other family members. It was a sweet reunion for them, and a nice introduction for my boys.

"Nene" and her brother pose with my boys after dinner. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
“Nene” and her brother pose with my boys after dinner. – Photo by the author

New England Road Trip, Part 2: Boston

From my travels, August 5, 2021.

We got up and had a nice breakfast at the hotel. It was raining, but we decided to take our chances and roll downtown.

The first stop I wanted to take the boys to was the old Out of Town News near Harvard. Of course, this meant that I had to explain the concept of a newsstand to them, but I also got to share the story of how Microsoft had been started there. It wasn’t the best experience since it was still raining, and there wasn’t anywhere great to park, but it was some history that is more on the nerdy side.

Microcenter is always a hit with my crew. - <i>Photo by Karen Michener</i>
Microcenter is always a hit with my crew. – Photo by Karen Michener

From there, we stopped over at the Cambridge Microcenter – always a favorite store for us. And to be at the one where the MIT folks shop was a treat. It was fun to browse around there, and we were even able to pick up some inexpensive oversized golf umbrellas while we were there. Who would have guessed?

I then took the boys by MIT. Due to COVID-19, we couldn’t really go in any of the buildings, but we were allowed to check out their extremely nerdy bookstore. I especially liked their rather creative “MIT” t-shirts, but they didn’t carry them in the boys’ sizes. Bummer. Both boys were able to pick out postcards that they sent back to their mom – something of a tradition for us now.

One of the nerdiest t-shirts imaginable at the MIT bookstore. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
One of the nerdiest t-shirts imaginable at the MIT bookstore. – Photo by the author

Moving back into history nerd mode, we drove over to the Charlestown Navy Yard to see the NPS Visitors Center there and pick up Junior Ranger books for Boston National Historical Park. There we were able to see and learn a little about the Battle of Bunker Hill. Sadly, the WWII-era Fletcher-class Destroyer USS Cassin Young (DD-793) was closed due to the rain (maybe there is concern about the decks being too slippery?)

But it wasn’t a complete waste. After passing through security, we were able to go aboard the USS Constitution – the oldest commissioned warship still afloat in the world. It was very cool to be able to explore her and speak with the sailors who keep her in such good shape while sharing her history with the public.

The boys pose with "Nene" in front of the USS <i>Constitution</i>. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
The boys pose with “Nene” in front of the USS Constitution. – Photo by the author

We crossed over into Boston and drove by the Old North Church, and made our way to Faneuil Hall for a late lunch. “Nene” was able to find “fried clams with bellies” that she was very excited about – it was a taste of home for her.

Around the corner, we were able to visit the Old State House, and the site of the Boston Massacre in front of it, which the boys had been reading about in school. It isn’t quite how you picture it since modern-day Boston is certainly more built-up than it was during 1770.

The boys at the site of the Boston Massacre. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
The boys at the site of the Boston Massacre. – Photo by the author

On our way out of town, we drove around Boston Common (and especially to see the monument to the 54th MA) and even got to see Fenway Park. The rest of the evening was spent hanging out at the hotel – including finishing up those Junior Ranger books – and then having dinner at the Burlington Mall food court. There would be more to do in the morning.

New England Road Trip, Part 1: Submarine Force Museum

From my travels, August 4, 2021.

The boys’ grandparents – affectionately known as “Nene” and “Baba” – had wanted to take the boys to Boston to explore some colonial history, as well as some of the history of their family from their mom’s side. Regular readers will know that I’m all for a trip like that!

We loaded up the van and got on the road north. Along the way, I wanted to stop off and show the boys the Submarine Force Museum – which I had visited once with my family as a kid – and was excited to share with my own boys.

Isaac approves of the dummy control panels in the museum. He loves buttons and switches! - <i>Photo by the author</i>
Isaac approves of the dummy control panels in the museum. He loves buttons and switches! – Photo by the author

Among the favorite attractions within the museum for my crew were the dummy sub controls and actual working periscopes in a more interactive section. The periscopes stick out through the roof of the building and allow a 360-degree view around the building. The boys had fun looking for our car out in the parking lot – and John said he wanted to install one at home.

John checks out our surroundings through the periscope. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
John checks out our surroundings through the periscope. – Photo by the author

The true highlight of the museum was of course getting to go aboard the world’s first nuclear-powered vessel, the USS Nautilus (SSN-571). The boys and their grandparents had never done anything like that. It’s much roomier than the WWII-era USS Becuna that the boys and I had visited in Philadephia a few years earlier.

The boys with their "Nene" about to go aboard the USS Nautilus. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
The boys with their “Nene” about to go aboard the USS Nautilus. – Photo by the author

I think that everyone had a good time learning and experiencing some new things on our first stop – especially considering that the museum is free. From Groton, CT, we continued north through Rhode Island, and got to our hotel in Lexington, MA that evening. We had a nice dinner out at Red Heat Tavern, and then settled in to rest up for the activities we had planned in Boston the next day.

Battlefield Visits: Overland Campaign and More

From my travels, July 17, 2021.

This is going to be a fairly long post because we’re about to cover a lot of ground.

Back in the summer of 2021, I had a rare weekend without my boys. My now-wife Emily suggested that it might be nice to do a battlefield trip. I suggested visiting the Fredericksburg / Richmond area since I’d been reading Gordon C. Rhea’s excellent series of books about the Overland Campaign, and besides: Fredericksburg is a cool town with some nice restaurants.

I booked a hotel and got dinner reservations at Fahrenheit 132 downtown. We had an absolutely amazing dinner there on Friday night, and strolled around the town a bit. The next day was going to be all about battlefield stomping.

Massaponax Church

If you’re going to follow the path of the Overland Campaign after the Battle of Spotsylvania Court House, you pretty much need to start here at Massaponax Church.

This is where Lt. Gen. Ulysses S. Grant and Maj. Gen. George G. Meade planned out the next phase of the campaign. This is also the site of the only known photos taken of both of these generals together. Emily was nice enough to help me attempt to re-create one of them, and we had a little fun with it. Standing in the footsteps of Grant is becoming something of a tradition for me.

On the left, Grant hunched over a pew with Meade seated and reading a map. My approximation of Grant's position on the right. - <i>Photo by Emily Skillman</i>
On the left, Grant hunched over a pew with Meade seated and reading a map. My approximation of Grant’s position on the right. – Photo by Emily Skillman

Battle of North Anna – Civil War Battlefield #135

It had been 665 days since my last “new” battlefield visit. It felt good to get out and explore something again!

I had been dreaming about seeing the site of the Battle of North Anna for years. The field is somewhat preserved today – at least a lot of the earthworks are – by a county park. Emily and I hiked along the “grey trail“. The earthworks here are well-preserved and just seemed to go on and on. Definitely among the nicest I have seen.

I came prepared with maps. There are a few trails at North Anna. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
I came prepared with maps. There are a few trails at North Anna. – Photo by the author

The site of Brig. Gen. Ledlie’s ill-advised attack was nasty – gullies and breastworks – no wonder it was a slaughter. The view of the river at Ox Ford was also imposing. Gen. Robert E. Lee’s great “inverted V” trap was indeed formidable.

Battle of Hanover Court House – Civil War Battlefield #136

Just a single wayside marker near the Hanover Tavern mentions the action of the 1862 Battle of Hanover Court House.

#SignSelfie at Hanover Tavern. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
#SignSelfie at Hanover Tavern. – Photo by the author

This one was not part of the Overland Campaign, but it was along the route we were taking and I hadn’t visited yet. Elements of both armies passed through this area multiple times during the war as well.

Battle of Haw’s Shop – Civil War Battlefield #137

Wayside markers at the Salem Church and the Enon Church (both along Studley Road) describe the action of the all-cavalry Battle of Haw’s Shop. Once again, Brig. Gen. George Armstrong Custer makes his presence felt as it was the charge of his Michigan Brigade that broke the Confederate lines.

One of the markers at Enon Church - <i>Photo by the author</i>
One of the markers at Enon Church – Photo by the author

Battle of Totopotomoy Creek – Civil War Battlefield #138

A small section of the Battle of Totopotomoy Creek is preserved by the NPS around the “Rural Plains” house (where Patrick Henry was married). We attempted to walk along a trail there, but it was very hot and not well-marked, so we turned back.

Real artillery at Totopotomoy Creek. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
Real artillery at Totopotomoy Creek. – Photo by the author

Emily made the first artillery-spotting of the day: a real 3-inch Ordnance Rifle from the Phoenix Iron Company.

Battle of Old Church – Civil War Battlefield #139

Another cavalry battle involving George Armstrong Custer, the Battle of Old Church didn’t have any markers or preservation at all. We drove through the center of the field – along McClellan Road – and it was pretty easy to see where the original Union defensive line would have been.

Battle of Cold Harbor – Civil War Battlefield #140

The Battle of Cold Harbor is another place where the NPS has preserved a small section of a massive field. There’s a lot more still to be done here, with the American Battlefield Trust always on the lookout for ways to preserve every acre they can.

There is a nice Visitor Contact Station here – though we weren’t allowed inside because of COVID-19. A couple of rangers had a canopy set up out front and were handing out maps, Junior Ranger materials, and answering questions.

Emily checks out a wayside marker at one of the Cold Harbor auto tour stops. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
Emily checks out a wayside marker at one of the Cold Harbor auto tour stops. – Photo by the author

We picked up a map and did the short 4-stop auto tour. It was nice, but I wonder how much visitation a satellite site like this gets.

Second Battle of Deep Bottom – Civil War Battlefield #141

A small roadside marker along Darbytown Road, near the Hardy Central Baptist Church, tells of some of the action of the Second Battle of Deep Bottom. It is located near the spot where Confederate Brig. Gen. John R. Chambliss was killed.

Battle of Glendale – Civil War Battlefield #142

We drove through most of the field of the Battle of Glendale on the way to our next stop. The fighting here was part of the earlier 1862 Seven Days Battles, so it wasn’t the focus of this trip. I didn’t stop for any of the markers, mainly because it didn’t seem like there was anywhere safe to pull off and read them.

The NPS also no longer runs a Visitor Contact Station out here, so that makes it harder.

Battle of Malvern Hill – Civil War Battlefield #143

I know that I just got done saying that I wasn’t focusing on the Seven Days Battles during this trip, but I decided to add the Battle of Malvern Hill to the itinerary after reading about Henry Hunt’s masterful use of artillery here.

Looking out across the field where the Confederate assault on Malvern Hill took place. It's a gorgeous place. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
Looking out across the field where the Confederate assault on Malvern Hill took place. It’s a gorgeous place. – Photo by the author

Honestly, it isn’t that much of a hill, but the approaches that the Confederates used were absolutely murderous. I don’t know how anyone survived those assaults. Thanks to Hunt’s artillery, the Union army could safely retreat from their failed campaign against Richmond.

First Battle of Deep Bottom – Civil War Battlefield #144

We found a wayside describing some of the action of the First Battle of Deep Bottom near where the Union pontoon bridge had been constructed. There is a small park there today.

The Union army had a pontoon bridge here. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
The Union army had a pontoon bridge here. – Photo by the author

Battle of Chaffin’s Farm / New Market Heights – Civil War Battlefield #145

Stopped at Fort Harrison which had a few markers to describe the Battle of Chaffin’s Farm / New Market Heights. The earthwork fort is fairly well-preserved, and Emily enjoyed this spot as it was pretty easy to visualize what happened here.

A very nice set of NPS markers at Fort Harrison. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
A very nice set of NPS markers at Fort Harrison. – Photo by the author

Battle of Darbytown and New Market Roads – Civil War Battlefield #146

This is where the names of the fights start to get a little repetitive and confusing.

There is a wayside marker for the Battle of Darbytown and New Market Roads – along with a fake Parrott Rifle – in the parking lot of a C&F Bank. This was a minor battle with a matching very minor interpretation.

Our last artillery piece of the trip was - sadly - fake. - <i>Photo by the author</i>
Our last artillery piece of the trip was – sadly – fake. – Photo by the author

Battle of Darbytown Road – Civil War Battlefield #147

There are two markers for the Battle of Darbytown Road (one called it the Second Battle of Fair Oaks) located outside of Dorey Park. This was another very small action.

Battle of Fair Oaks and Darbytown Road – Civil War Battlefield #148

There was no marker here – nor was there a safe place to pull off. I did see a marker for Fort Lee in the vicinity of where I think the Battle of Fair Oaks and Darbytown Road took place, but to be honest, all of these fights seem to overlap and get confused.

Battle of Oak Grove – Civil War Battlefield #149

I know – here is another of the Seven Days Battles, but as I was driving through the area anyway, I decided to check of the Battle of Oak Grove.

This field is now completely consumed by Richmond International Airport. I guess the airport has to go somewhere, but it’s a shame to wipe out a historical battlefield in the process.

There is a marker and a few cannons along the airport entrance road that commemorate the fighting, but I couldn’t visit them as the entire area is littered with “NO PARKING” signs.

Battle of Seven Pines – Civil War Battlefield #150

Just to make it an even 150 – and because it was right along our route anyway, I stopped at the Battle of Seven Pines – another of the Seven Days Battles. This one was basically a bonus.

There isn’t much left of this field, but the lines seem fairly well marked with roadside signs. We saw one of the typical VA stone markers outside of the local library.


We saw a lot on our 1-day trip. In fact, 16 battlefields in one day is a personal record for me that I doubt I’ll ever top. Emily was a really great travel partner. I’m lucky to have her.